Amiga 1200 · rev 1D.1

Before you start

• Fifteen of the twenty are SMD electrolytics (10, 22, 47 and 100 µF), and those are the ones that leak. On the A1200 they tend to start with the ones near the audio outputs, but given time they all leak, and the electrolyte spreads and even gets underneath chips such as the RAM ^[7].
• The electrolyte is almost transparent and conductive. A board that looks new may already have its trace lacquer eaten away: in the Amiga-Wiki example, a never-used stock A1200 had residue and lacquer lifting under capacitors that looked fine ^[7].
• Always work with the power supply unplugged from the mains. Some people twist the SMD parts off with pliers ^[7]; we prefer hot air or two irons, because on an already corroded board the pad can come away stuck to the capacitor. Clean off the residue thoroughly and inspect the traces before soldering in the new ones.
• Observe the polarity of each one. On C324 and C334 don't rely on the silkscreen alone: some boards have the marking or the factory fitting reversed ^[4].
• The replacement's voltage can be the same as the original or higher, never lower. The 100 µF ones are 6.3 V in the Commodore list ^[1]; the Amiga-Wiki suggests 16 V ^[3] and Console5 35 V for the 10 and 22 µF ones ^[4], which is fine if it fits in the same space.
• The list barely changes between revisions: AmigaKit sells the same kit for 1A, 1B, 1D1, 1D3, 1D4 and 2B ^[9]; on rev 2 C407 becomes a tantalum ^[3]. If you find broken traces or damaged chips, bring the board to the shop.