Amiga 1200 · rev 2B

Before you start

• The thirteen SMD parts (10, 22, 47 and 100 µF) are the ones that leak. On the A1200 they tend to start with the ones near the audio outputs, but given time they all leak, and the electrolyte spreads and even gets underneath chips such as the RAM ^[6].
• The electrolyte is almost transparent and conductive: a board that looks new may already have its trace lacquer eaten away ^[6]. Work with the power supply unplugged from the mains. Some people twist the SMD parts off with pliers ^[6]; we prefer hot air or two irons, because on an already corroded board the pad can come away stuck to the capacitor.
• What changes compared with the 1D boards: 2B uses 512K × 8 RAM, Budgie rev A and the mouse port on a separate panel ^[2]; C407 changes from electrolytic to tantalum ^[2][3] and C460 is left unfitted ^[2][4].
• The voltages come from the Commodore parts list for rev 1D ^[1], because we could not find the one for rev 2; they match the Amiga-Wiki ^[3], except for the 100 µF ones (6.3 V from Commodore, 16 V on the Amiga-Wiki). A replacement of the same or higher voltage is fine, never lower.
• Observe the polarity. On C324 and C334 don't rely on the silkscreen alone: some boards have the marking or the factory fitting reversed ^[4].
• There are two more tantalums in the drawing (C901 and XC901) ^[2], which we left off the map because no source gives the voltage. If you find broken traces or damaged chips, bring the board to the shop.