Amiga CD32 · rev 3

Before you start

• Twenty-seven are SMD, and those are the ones to worry about: with age they leak, the electrolyte eats the traces, and the Amiga-Wiki advises every CD32 owner to replace them ^[6][7]. Don't wait for symptoms.
• The CD32 uses an external power supply. Always work with it unplugged from the mains and from the console, and don't open the power supply: the 230 V side is not something to work on at home. The controller also has an electrolytic of its own (C2, 47 µF), which is not on this list ^[4].
• The Commodore schematic only gives the µF ^[1]. The voltages come from the Amiga-Wiki list ^[4]; the Console5 list ^[5] gives 35 V for the 4.7, 10 and 22 µF ones and 6.3 V for the 100 µF ones. A replacement with the same or a higher voltage is always fine, if it fits in the same space.
• The Amiga-Wiki warns that some consoles have electrolytics fitted the wrong way round from the factory ^[4], and Console5 says the same of C408 and C811 ^[5]. Don't copy the orientation of the old capacitor: confirm the positive from the silkscreen and the map.
• We left C303 out. It is in the audio circuit, on the +AV supply ^[1], but the sources don't agree: the July 1993 Commodore schematic ^[1] and amigapcb.org ^[3] say 470 µF, and the Amiga-Wiki redraw ^[2] and both recap lists ^[4][5] say 22 µF, with none of them giving the voltage. Replace it too, but read the value and voltage off the one on your board.
• Also left out are C306, C854A and C864A, which the schematic marks as not fitted (*) ^[1][2], and the tantalum C407 (10 µF), because no source gives its voltage ^[1][4]. If you find broken traces or damaged chips, bring the board to the shop.