Amiga 600 · rev 1.5

Before you start

• Fifteen of the nineteen are SMD electrolytics (10, 22, 47 and 100 µF), and those are the ones that leak. The electrolyte is almost transparent and conductive, so a board that looks clean may already have traces eaten away underneath; an A600 in that state may even stop booting ^[8].
• Always work with the power supply unplugged from the mains. Some people twist the SMD parts off with pliers ^[8]; we remove them with hot air or two irons, because on an already corroded board the pad can come away stuck to the capacitor.
• Once they are off, clean off the residue thoroughly and check the traces and the lacquer around each one before soldering in the new ones: the electrolyte even eats into the trace lacquer ^[8].
• Revs 1.x and 2 take the same set of electrolytics ^[3]; the difference between them is in the Gayle (-01 on 1.x, -02 on 2) and the original Kickstart ^[7], not in the capacitors.
• Observe the polarity of each one. On C324 and C334 check against the schematic, because some boards have the silkscreen or the capacitors themselves reversed ^[4].
• The replacement's voltage can be the same as the original or higher, never lower: the Console5 kit has 35 V instead of 25 V on several ^[4] and the Amiga-Wiki gives 16 V for the 100 µF ones ^[3]. If you find broken traces or damaged chips, bring the board to the shop.